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Our Feet touch the Great Wall

Day 9 Great Wall Jiankou to Mutianyu

storm 20 °C

Normal wake up at dawn with a little apprehension about the tour we got onto at the last minute. Got to admit the internet for travelling is just fantastic to able to do research on the run and book days in advance, nothing like it when I backpacked yes 30 years ago. We were going to get a taxi to get to our meeting point but the taxi drivers said just take the subway, traffic gridlock at 8.30am. So it’s off to the Beijing subway, peak hour with hundreds of other commuters, gulp! After about 10 minutes of map reading and seeing how the system works we showed the ticket lady a screen shot of the Lama Temple in Chinese, we got told platform 2 and paid $1.20 for 2 tickets. Worked out how they went and off we were and pretty happy we got through it all. Taxi would have been $9 and 1hr plus travel.
Got to the Lama Temple and thankfully the owners of the tour were there to meet us and we were off to the great wall with a group of 10 others. The tourist sections of the Great Wall are about 75km north of Beijing and I remember from the times I had been there this drive took about 3 hours due to the poor condition of the roads. Now it is a 4 lane perfectly smooth highway all the way and about 1 ½ hours later we are at this village. This trek is about going to places where the wall is still untouched and few tourists get to. We start in Jiankou and walk up to the wall, along the ridge and down to Mutianyu. Lunch was in a rural village and a very typical farmers type of lunch, simple but delicious.
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The first hour of the trek was pretty much straight up hill through the bush and the weather a lot cooler than yesterday with a prediction of rain. Finally we got to the top of the ridge and the scenery just opened up and we were below a 400 year old tower. You looked over the range and you could see the wall just follow the ridge and just meander across the range to as far as you could see. The haze also added a mystic to the atmosphere and you really did feel like time had stood still. We climbed up this tower and got a better view of the wall. It was great to be here with Jen and taking in a very special moment. You stand here all day and marvel at the sheer effort it took to build the wall running east to west across northern China.
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About the wall, firstly it is not the only man made thing that can be seen from outer space and it is not just one wall but a series of many walls that line up or go off in all directions. The wall is a series of fortifications and stretches from Dandong in the east to Lop Lake in the west. The wall measures 6259 km and was built 220 BC to 206 BC with the majority is from the Ming dynasty.
We then started to walk along the wall and just enjoyed every step knowing no one else was doing this and we were actually walking along the Great Wall in its original form. All of us commented on why build this wall in the most inaccessible terrain.
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For being 400 years old the wall is in very good condition, although nature is slowly reclaiming this magnificent structure. Some sections are very steep. We reached the highest section and started our descent which was over 20% gradient. We literally had to hold onto the wall and crawl step by step down for about 50m. Got to the bottom and unfortunately the clouds closed in and the rain started to pour. On with our raincoats and ponchos and we still had about 1 ½ hours to get back to Mutianyu.
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We continued to walk and eventually got to the tourist section where it has been totally restored and in fact has 2 cable cars to take tourists up from the town to the wall and allow people to walk along this section. One thing the rain did was get rid of all the tourists so we had one section all to ourselves. The rain also added to the mystic as the clouds rolled through the hills and valleys. The last 45minutes was all downhill and lucky Jen and I had done a lot of leg training before we left as everyone else commented on the legs were getting pretty sore at the end of the day.
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I have to correct a previous blog where I commented on the Terracotta Warriors and compared it to other great ancient historical things I had seen. I forget to mention the Great Wall as I had already been here a number of times but each time at the tourist places. The Great Wall is special and to walk along the untouched areas is something Jen and I will always treasure.

Jen’s hiking boots that have accompanied her on her travels (Machu Pichu, Grand Canyon, Alaska, Patagonia, Cradle Mountain) and now her trusty Keens have trekked the Great Wall and this time she was no longer on her own.
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Trans Mongolian and Ulaan Baatar here we come!

Posted by tszeitli 16:46 Archived in China Tagged history trekking china great_wall Comments (6)

Sunday in Beijing, the old and the new!

Day 8 Beijing

sunny 30 °C

Today is a big sightseeing day as tomorrow we go on the Great Wall trek and then its onto Ulaan Baatar. We tend to get up at dawn, say 5.30am and get ourselves organised and plan our day’s adventure. Today its Tian’anmen Square, the Forbidden Palace, Olympic Stadium and the Temple of Heaven. In my 6 months living in Beijing I never had a clear sunny day. A constant haze was always covering us. Today was clear skies, I could see the sun and its hot. We walked to Tian’anmen Square and we suddenly met up with thousands of tourists. So much for trying to beat the crowd. About 99% of the tourists are local Chinese from inner China going on tour groups to visit Beijing. Yes, we had to go through token security scan but otherwise there was very little police or military soldiers and I did not get the feeling there was a strong Chinese security watching us at all times. If they were it was discrete. Jen did get a sense of apprehension about the place as this was the place where the 1987 Tian’anmenn uprising took place and I pointed out where the guy ran out in front of the tank. The place does have a dark side to it. Chairmen Mao mausoleum is at the south end and the Forbidden Palace at the north end. It is surrounded by quite majestic buildings that look like typical communist type structures. The square is massive and represents the first ring road in Beijing of which they have now 6.
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We made our way across to the Forbidden Palace and joined the mass of people entering the large doors under a picture of Chairmen Mao. Just above his picture is where you see the key government leaders stand when there is a parade in the square. Tip: Passport is required to buy a ticket, which we forgot so we used our travel business cards that Jen made up. The grumpy lady at the ticket booth was not impressed but sold us the tickets. We got the headphones that give you a personal description of the palace and GPS triggered.
The Palace was the Chinese imperial palace from the Ming dynasty (1420) to the Qing dynasty (1912). It was constructed from 1406 to 1420 and the complex consists of 980 buildings and covers 72 hectares. The palace is now classified as a world heritage site.
You have to marvel at the grandeur of the place, the architecture and the detail of the whole site. It is a very impressive attraction and as Jen has advised me go see “The Last Emperor” and you will see what we are talking about as the movie was filmed all there and depicted the life of Emperor Pu Yi.
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We came out the other end about 2 hours later and walked down a bit and stopped at some shops. You will see now on Jen at times is wearing a traditional communist cap! Suits her!
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Next stop is the Olympic Stadium north of the Forbidden Palace. This place is huge and you just marvel at the layout with all the stadiums. The two building that stand out are the Water Cube Aquatic Centre and the Birds Nest Main Stadium, both are an iconic piece of architecture. Jen went nuts with the Water Cube as the bubbles on the wall and the light passing through it makes for a great photo.
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The Chinese love their mascots and pop up characters and numerous ones crop up all the time. The 5 mascots for the Olympic Games were out front of the Birds Nest so we could not resist to get a photo taken. Kids!
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Next stop is the Temple of Heaven just south of Tian’anmen Square. It’s based in a large park and you have a series of temples that run south to north. We strolled through them all with the hundreds of other tourists but it was very pleasant, slow and time to just do some people watching and take in the moment of being in Beijing. The main temple is called Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests.
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The last part of the walk as we were coming out of the park was to stroll through the gardens with rows and rows of beautiful roses. Also Sunday in the park is for classical dancing by the Chinese. The get dressed up and put music on and then just start dancing, quite beautiful to watch. Also as we passed under a gate there were 2 small orchestras playing Chinese music with traditional Chinese music, utilising the acoustics. Is was very peaceful and we with the small crowd just stood there quietly listening to the beautiful music.
We walked back and by this time late in the afternoon Jen had suffered a small dose of heat stroke. The day was hot and we almost spent all day outside walking on concrete or marble so the day’s events took its toll.
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That was one full day but really captured a big chunk of stuff in Beijing. Tomorrow its trekking the Great Wall.

Posted by tszeitli 16:40 Archived in China Tagged history trekking china crowds Comments (1)

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